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It seems a little strange to begin to write a story such as this, for although I am accustomed to writing about each of my own rides, no matter how small, this is the first time I have written “on assignment” for Solomoto30 magazine. So first, let’s have a little introduction about how I came upon this.

Solomoto30 magazine was invited by the Chilean company MotoAventura to travel with them, but the magazine, being based in Spain, found it impossible to send someone to Chile and decided to employ a certain civil engineer as “correspondent” for that magazine in Chile.

MotoAventura is a company based in the city of Osorno, located some 500 miles south of Santiago, accessible from that city by bus or air. It is dedicated, as the name implies, to organized adventures based on motorcycles. Its owners are a married couple, Sonia Dvorachuk of Argentina, and Roberto Baum of Chile. The company got underway in March of 2000 and started its trips in August of the same year, when they purchased the seven bikes that they have at this time, all dual-sport bikes of medium to large displacement.

What is peculiar about this company, and I had the pleasure of checking on this myself, revolves around the fact that they don’t just organize bike tours, but that they use the bikes as a medium to reach the places where visitors can experience a wide variety of adventures,including white-water rafting, horseback riding, wildlife photography, and other activities,in Chile and in Argentina. Significantly, they also offer a level of personal attention, with the the owners themselves acting as guides and support, placing visitors in the best possible hands, since they know very well the region in which they travel. They will arrange for a visitor to bring his or her own bike or rent one of theirs. Roberto draws upon a great deal of experience on two wheels on all types of bikes and from years of racing enduro events in national-level competition, which as we all know lends a great deal of expertise in the varied circumstances of motorcycle travels.

So, having introduced the company and its owners, let’s tell a bit of what took place on this recent and very rainy weekend in the south of Chile.

I reached Osorno on Friday at nine in the morning and by eleven we got into our first ride. The group included owner Roberto, a possible future guide named Renato, and yours truly. The planned objecctive was Lake Tagua Tagua, located south of Reloncavi Sound, some 100 miles to the south of Osorno. The route would take us along Lake Llanquihue on its north shore and then we would head out for our objective. It was hardly an auspicious day. We were greeted by strong winds and a bit of drizzle as far as the ltitle town of Cascadas, a lake resort at the feet of the Osorno volcano, as well press on the 50 miles of good pavement. At that point we got into the gravel for about 20 miles to the town of Ensenada, the point at which we ought to have turned off toward Lake Tagua tagua. But no sooner did we hit the gravel road than the heavens opened up with a pounding rain and we felt obliged to take shelter for a couple of hours in the splendid fishing lodge at Ensenada, where we ate a bit and used a couple of coffees each to work on the cold that had worked its way into our bones.

The place was remarkably hospitable and nicely decorated. From our chairs we could look out on the surface of Lake Llanquihue, on which the waves and whitecaps were becoming more and more menacing. We did not know that this was the beginning of a major storm which would affect the region from this point south with intensity, and which would cause a great deal of damage -- as we would learn the following day. We determined at this point to change our plans and head along the southern shore of Lake Llanquihue towards Puerto Varas and then to a hunting preserve located on the Pedernal estate, close to the town of Tegualda, where we would stay in a cabin.

This ride was no more than 60 miles, but the intensity of the rain made riding very difficult, calling for serious care. The worst of it was the lack of visibility because of the rain on the helmet visor and the fogging of our glasses. This made it hard to discern the flooded portions of the highway, which of course we found once we rode into them, spashing a wave off the front wheel and filling our boots. A concern for safety would usually get me off the road in times like these, but hey, this is an adventure, isn’t it? In any event, this was an unusual situation, being on the edge of a powerful storm. A short time before reaching Pedernal we were thoroughly soaked and getting cold. But waiting for us was a warm hearth, a life-saver for all. We changed clothes and sampled the “sailing wine” - warm wine with cinnamon, orange rind, and other spices, excellent for warming a chilled body. We were also served “kuchen” – a pastry characteristic of southern Chile, which was greatly influenced by the German colonists who arrived at the beginning of the past century

The Pedernal estate, property of the Lüdwig Schilling family, consists of more than 1200 acres, which in combination with three other properties forms a hunting preserve for a type of deer imported from Argentina in the thirties. It is frequented by primarily North American and European hunters but is not yet at the zenith of its tourism potential. But there are good opportunities for outings on horseback in the surrounding countryside. Everyone has his own feeings about hunting, and for us it was quite enough to do the photo tour of these fine animals. Naturally, this is one of the options that MotoAventura offers on its trips.

The afternoon after our arrival, together with Harald Lüdwig, son of the owners, allowed us to see some of the deer from a distance. This being the rut season for them, we were treated to a display of their powerful vocal displays, or trumpeting. This was a unique experience, to be able to enjoy these animals in their natural environment and hear them so clearly.

That night there was an exquisite dinner at a table well supplied by Ruth, lady of the house, and of course the food was German, with applesauce, potatoes, and wild boar meat, a delicacy. This went down with a good wine and interesting commentary on the events of our trip, the raising of the deer, and the details surrounding the hunting. During the night, before we went to sleep, the moon shone brightly over the preserve and we could hear the trumpeting of the stags in the distance as we drifted off.

The following day began with thick overcast and very cold. We took another early foray to try to see those secretive animals, for which we got up at 6:30 in the morning, we opted to leave behind a tempting barbecue we were to enjoy that day, and instead try another attempt at reaching Lake Tagua Tagua. We said goodbye to the family, but not before grandmother Ruth, as we called her, went for a little ride on a motorcycle with Roberto, her tremendous smile immortalized on film. Without a doubt, such people can tell which are the true pleasures of this life.

We returned to the road on which we had ridden in the rain the day before. We took on fuel at Frutillar and riding the southern shore of Lake Llanquihue we reached Ensenada once again. There we took the paved route that would lead us to our planned destination. The scenery and ideal riding conditions made this simply spectacular. We arrived at Ralún and stopped on the bridge where the Petrohue River empties into Reloncavi Sound, while I mentioned to Roberto that these were some of the finest moments in life. A fine day, in a beautiful place, riding a bike – what more could a man ask for? We left the pavement and headed to the south along the Reloncavi Sound. In the town of Cochamó we took the obligatory photo of the beautiful wooden-stave church surrounded by a backdrop of the sea. We pressed on toward Puelo where we were to cross the Sound on a small ferry. Unfortunately we could not have foreseen what had occurred. The rain had raised the flow of the river and the crossing would have been dangerous, for which reason they had discontinued the ferry service. It shoud be pointed out that this is a small boat, suspended by a steel cable and propelled by a small outboard motor. Its “captain” indicated to Roberto that on one previous occasion that not less than 5 vehicles had fallen into the river. We decided to not increase the statistics and we were left with no other recourse than to take the same road back. After all of our efforts, we were just ten miles from Lake Tagua Tagua.

As often occurs in very twisty roads, the view can be quite different on each passage and so I started to take photos once again of the previously unnoticed scenery.

After crossing the Cochamó River we headed down the northern side by a narrow and rocky trail, looking for different scenery, but in a short time the road was blocked from the effects of the heavy rains from the day before. Go back again.

So we returned to the path from the day before, from Ensenada and Cascadas to Osorno, the scenery naturally different when viewed in milder weather, with openings in the clouds allowing us a view of the Osorno volcano. Back at the ranch, a fine meal awaited us, prepared by Sonia, accompanied by the post-ride conversation that recalls the day, punctuated by laughter over the tales to be told by the participants.

On the last day, after a belated wakeup by the invited reporter, due to accumulated weariness from the rigors of the road and the lack of such practice for nearly two years, Roberto invited me on a short ride of some 90 miles to and from Mansa Bay, on the coast near Osorno. The day was cloudy again but the road treated us to plenty of enjoyable curves. I had heard many unhappy warnings about this area, but like so many things in this life, everything is subjective, differing according to the eyes that view these places, and to me the scenery seemed very pretty. Here there was a section where the native vegetation nearly reached the shore, there a cozy cove and a resort area with several houses which which are empty during this season. On the return the rain stated up again, the same as earlier. I put on the rain suit and had no problems.

Before reaching the house of Sonia and Roberto, once into the city, amidst the atmosphere of rain and cloud, I sensed the aroma of wood-smoke, and the emptiness of the streets took me back to the days of my childhood. It is difficult to explain with mere words, but it is a particular situation that I want to explain since it filled my soul with fine memories.

We had lunch with Peter Hopf, a friendly and tough German living in Chile for several years with his Mexican wife. Along with beng a guide on several trips, he takes care of the most fundamental logistical consideration: food! He was the owner of a good restaurant in Osorno and today whoever goes on trips with our friends can enjoy the benefits of his culinary art.

Then came the time I had to return. Getting together my equipment, boots, and rain-suit, helmet in hand, I boarded the bus to return to Santiago.

Now, my friends, what more is there to tell you? There are details that would not fit on these pages, but whoever wishes to know more about this company can visit their web page, which is in the title of the story, and there you can find more photos, the programs that are offered, and the email address of these good friends. What more is there but to invite you to share in a rare and wonderful experience in this life, that of riding these bikes. Sonia, Roberto, and the others will be there with open arms and good humor to take care of you.

And once again, many thanks to SoloMoto30 for finding a place on its pages to show this splendid sliver of earth that is Chile. Here we have fine and varied landscapes to offer all readers, with mountains and oceans, deserts and glaciers, forests, lakes, and above all, the hospitality of people who will not disappoint you.

Take the chance.

Claudio Horzella

"El Duende"

chorzella@siss.cl